PURE
VEGETARIAN’ : PREMA SRINIVASAN : WESTLAND : PAGES 328 : PRICE RS 695/- ‘
There
are vegetarian cookbooks galore. One might ask whether there is a need for yet
another one. But then this book is unique. It occupies a niche in the cookbook
market. It is more than a cookbook. It goes back to the roots of vegetarian
cooking, traces its history from the Vedic period and how it has evolved over
thousands of years. The word ‘Pure’ in the title of the book stands for ‘Saatvik’
food based on Aayurvedic principles and abundant in ‘praana’, the universal
life force. It is the diet of yogis devised for the evolution of the higher
consciousness. Food that nourishes the body and the soul.
It
is a large-format paperback book, a bit intimidating by size, but subdued in
presentation and yet its pictures some colourful which stand out while others
in green which could have been better, containing a goldmine of information
drawn richly from our Vedic heritage. Food is an important part of our culture.
Offering food to the Gods before eating it in moderation is ‘de rigueur’ and
part of our culture. The book is a compelling read and a vegetarian foodie’s
delight. Mrs Prema Srinivasan has adopted a cerebral approach in introducing
traditional cooking to modern readers and besides laying out more than 100
recipes which are easy to follow and prepare has not left untouched the other
‘accoutrement’ that go with cooking - the traditional utensils and appliances,
and the fine blending of spices that produce the right aroma and flavour. Not
restricting herself to Indian traditions alone, the author has introduced the
readers to Italian and Buddhist cuisines as they too place emphasis on the use
of pure vegetables.
Gourmands
like me can literally take an epicurean journey through the vegetarian cuisine
of South India by going through this book. After the initial chapters on the
culinary tradition and the author’s beginnings, the subsequent chapters
pictorially describe the traditional vessels used in cooking, how weights and
measurements are very important to maintain consistency of taste, and the pre-cooking
processes. Quoting from the Upanishads, the author focuses on the spirituality
of food and the special and sacred food offerings of the famous Vishnu temples
in South India. The next chapter is all about rice. It was a revelation to read
how temples distributed cooked food to the community, the nearly 2 lakh
varieties of rice grown in our country, the order of serving food and the
‘sadrasas’ (six tastes) which makes eating of cooked vegetables with spices a
pleasurable experience while it tickles our tastebuds. Pacchadis and salads,
dals and gojju, the plethora of vegetables, kuzhambu and saambaar, the
effervescent rasam and its varieties, the different mouth-watering sweets- each
of these get a full chapter. Then comes the iconic South Indian tiffins which
include idli, the different varieties of dosai, vadai, uppuma, aapam etc, There
is a very interesting chapter on regional vegetarian cuisines - Rajapalaayam, Todaimandala
Mudaliyaar, Kongunaadu and Udupi. I found the chapter on the experience of paan-eating
heavenly. Separate chapters are devoted to the accompaniments to the main
courses like chutneys and tugaiyals, pickles and podis which make them so much
more enjoyable to eat. The irresistible trademark South Indian ‘ kapi ’(cofffe)
is the ‘finale’. Mrs Prema Srinivasan refers to it as ‘nectar of the Gods’. She
explains how ‘degree coffee’ (rated as excellent) is made using the coffee
filter. All these chapters makes the book very exceptional .
Mrs
Prema Srinivasan carries with her the rich traditions of Brahmin culture, intellectualism,
spirituality, and philosophy of life. She shows her open and absorbing mind and
her willingness to assimilate those styles of food which though alien are
consistent and compatible with vegetarian cooking. The book has been
painstakingly researched and draws its contents from various authentic sources.
It is a marvelous contribution to the genre of cookbooks and will always
provide reference and authenticity to the serious reader and practitioner.
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